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Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 cup coarsely chopped shallots
- 1 cup coarsely chopped onion
- 1 cup finely chopped carrot (slice into thin coins, then chop)
- 3 bay leaves
- 3 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
- 2 teaspoons herbes de Provence
- 1 pound ground duck
- 5 or 6 anchovy fillets, chopped
- 3 tablespoons white miso
- 3 or 4 tablespoons mushroom powder
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- 3 15-ounce cans diced tomatoes—juice and all
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 12 ounces beer (or more)
- 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
- Italian parsley, finely chopped
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%20below.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20recipe%20shares%20certain%20basic%20elements%20with%20last%20week%E2%80%99s:%20shallots,%20onion,%20carrot,%20pasta,%20bay%20leaf.%20In%20fact,%20as%20I%20was%20assembling%20it,%20at%20one%20point%20my%20hand%20strayed%20over%20to%20my%20fallback,%20tarragon,%20and%20I%20had%20to%20tell%20myself%20to%20make%20another%20choice.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAs%20I%20write%20this,%20it%E2%80%99s%20still%20miserably%20hot%20here%E2%80%94we%E2%80%99ve%20had%20five%20days%20in%20a%20row%20of%2090%C2%BA+%20heat.%20But%20at%20night,%20it%20cools%20down,%20and%20despite%20what%20the%20thermometer%20says%20the%20leaves%20are%20starting%20to%20turn%20and%20the%20songbirds%20are%20heading%20south.%20We%20know%20the%20crisp%20sweater-weather%20days%20are%20just%20around%20the%20corner.%20Something%E2%80%94the%20shorter%20days,%20the%20way%20the%20clouds%20look%20in%20the%20Midwest%20in%20September%E2%80%94is%20making%20us%20think%20of%20hearty,%20homey%20meals%20with%20big%20comforting%20flavors.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWe%20were%20at%20the%20grocery%20store%20on%20the%20weekend,%20and%20the%20butcher%20was%20putting%20out%20whole%20ducks.%20But%20he%20was%20also%20setting%20out%20an%20array%20of%20packaged%20duck%20parts%E2%80%94breasts,%20legs,%20and,%20nestled%20among%20them,%20ground%20duck.%20The%20giant%20lightbulb%20(the%20one%20shaped%20like%20a%20dinner%20plate)%20came%20on%20over%20my%20head.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20recipe%20took%20its%20inspiration%20from%20wood-fired%20duck%20hearts%20eaten%20at%20the%20bar%20at%20Duck%20Duck%20Goat,%20a%20pasta%20dinner%20at%20the%20counter%20at%20Osteria%20di%20Eataly%20and%20a%20recipe%20on%20BeerAdvocate.%20It%20begins%20with%20the%20typical%20Bolognese%20technique,%20then%20gives%20the%20globe%20a%20spin,%20pulling%20in%20ingredients%20from%20all%20over%20to%20build%20depth%20and%20enhance%20umami.%20It%E2%80%99s%20got%20tomatoes,%20it%E2%80%99s%20got%20bay%20leaf,%20it%E2%80%99s%20got%20dried%20mushrooms,%20and%20it%E2%80%99s%20also%20got%20miso%20and%20anchovies%20and,%20instead%20of%20wine%20and%20stock,%20it%E2%80%99s%20got%20brown%20ale.%20The%20ale%20is%20surprisingly%20just%20right%20with%20the%20duck,%20flattering%20and%20enhancing%20beautifully.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPlease%20don%E2%80%99t%20be%20put%20off%20by%20the%20volume%20of%20anchovies%20in%20here.%20They%20really%20do%20disappear%20into%20the%20whole,%20becoming%20one%20more%20umami%20building%20block.%20The%20same%20goes%20for%20the%20mushrooms.%20BTW,%20rather%20than%20buying%20dried%20powdered%20mushrooms,%20we%20recommend%20that%20you%20grind%20them%20yourself%20at%20home,%20just%20ahead%20of%20cooking.%20Basic%20dried%20porcini%20are%20ideal.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20choosing%20the%20ale,%20go%20for%20something%20brown%20to%20deep%20brown,%20with%20lots%20of%20caramel%20and%20toastiness.%20For%20this%20dish,%20we%20used%20Bell%E2%80%99s%20Best%20Brown%20Ale,%20a%20great%20option%20here%20in%20the%20Midwest.%20There%20are%20dozens%20of%20wonderful%20beers%20that%20would%20work%20beautifully%20in%20this%20recipe,%20from%20Scotch-type%20ales%20to%20bocks%20and%20stouts.%20Pick%20the%20one%20you%20want%20to%20drink%20with%20dinner.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20choosing%20the%20pasta,%20go%20for%20something%20as%20hearty%20as%20the%20pasta.%20We%20chose%20a%20penne%20rigate,%20but%20a%20pappardelle%20or%20some%20curly%20weirdo%20cavatappi%20would%20be%20terrific%20too.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFinally,%20this%20is%20pretty%20thoroughly%20wonderful%20served%20straight%20off%20the%20stove.%20But%20it%E2%80%99s%20even%20better%20when%20it%20rests%20for%20at%20least%20a%20day.%20Cook%20it%20on%20the%20weekend%20and%20have%20it%20during%20the%20week.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDuck%20Ragu%20with%20Brown%20Ale%20and%20Pasta%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EServes%204%20to%206%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHeat%20the%20olive%20oil%20in%20a%20big%20heavy-bottomed%20pan%E2%80%94we%20used%20our%20copper%20Dutch%20oven.%20Add%20the%20shallots%20and%20onions,%20stir%20well,%20then%20saut%C3%A9%20them%20until%20they%20start%20to%20turn%20light%20gold%E2%80%94about%2012%20to%2015%20minutes.%20About%2010%20minutes%20in,%20add%20the%20carrots%20and%20herbs.%20When%20the%20onions%20have%20started%20to%20turn%20golden,%20add%20the%20garlic.%20Saut%C3%A9%20for%20another%20minute%20or%20so,%20then%20add%20the%20duck,%20stirring%20and%20breaking%20up%20the%20meaty%20bits%20and%20mixing%20everything%20together.%20Cook,%20still%20stirring,%20until%20the%20duck%20starts%20to%20actually%20brown%20(after%20three%20or%20four%20%20minutes,%20I%20became%20impatient%20and%20turned%20up%20the%20heat%20for%20about%2030%20seconds%20to%20blast%20it%20there).%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdd%20the%20soy%20sauce,%20the%20miso%20and%20the%20dried%20mushroom%20and%20stir%20everything%20together%20well,%20then%20pour%20in%20the%20tomatoes,%20including%20their%20juice,%20plus%20the%20tomato%20paste%20and%20the%20anchovies,%20and%20stir%20well%20again.%20When%20everything%20is%20nicely%20incorporated,%20add%20the%20beer.%20Stir,%20b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