We’re making apple butter this week at Chez Bullhog. The house smells of October: sweet and cinnamony with bright apple overtures and a background of toffee. To complete the effect, a faint haze of smoke hangs in the air, tinged with the smell of home baked bread. That sweet smoke coming from the woodfired oven reminds me of the bonfires and leaf piles and rasping rakes of my youth.
First off, there’s something you’ve got to know. My son (whose main vegetable is apple butter) made me swear the other day that I wouldn’t put my dog-eared apple butter recipe up on the site. He’s that attached to it. However, I can in good faith let you in on a few secrets learned from 25 years of making the stuff:
Always use a recipe with fresh…